Bencze Birtok’s 2019 vintage: Furmint, Kéknyelű and amphora
From the newsletter archive. Originally sent 6 April 2021; adapted for the Journal on 29 October 2026.
Returning to Szent György hill
The April 2021 newsletter returned to István Bencze’s estate above Lake Balaton to explore the 2019 vintage. His original purchase in 2011 had been a small parcel on Szent György hill. By the time of this release, daily observation, biodiverse vineyards and biodynamic farming were central to the estate’s identity.
The account described basalt, tuff, Pannonian sandstone and brown forest soil beneath a range of local and international grape varieties. István’s aim was to carry the life of the vineyard through to the finished wine with as little interference as possible.
Hungarian grapes in different forms
Autochthon brought together Hárslevelű, Kéknyelű and Furmint. Part of the Hárslevelű spent time on its skins, while the other fruit was gently pressed. The components fermented and aged in amphora before blending.
The Furmint was whole-bunch pressed, then fermented and aged in clay for nine months. Kéknyelű followed a similarly gentle path, with ten months in amphora. These were different ways to explore Hungarian varieties through the particular ground of Szent György hill.
Time as part of the wine
Aries, István’s Riesling, spent two years fermenting and ageing in amphora. The newsletter contrasted its intensity and texture with the more immediate fruit of the other wines.
Across the range, the emphasis was on healthy grapes, time on the lees and careful handling. The release described wines bottled without fining, filtration or added sulphur. These details belong to the 2019 vintage discussed here; follow the grower page for the current selection.
