Strekov 1075: Zsolt Sütő, the Danube and the patience to wait
From the newsletter archive. Originally sent 5 May 2021; adapted for the Journal on 29 October 2026.
A visit to Strekov
Our archive spotlight on Zsolt Sütő began with winter visits to his farm in southern Slovakia. Beyond the entrance were a farmhouse, sheep, donkeys and a cellar full of wines that asked the visitor to slow down.
The recurring theme was uncertainty: the weather changes, each growing season is different and wine cannot be reduced to a completely predictable process. Zsolt’s response was close attention to the land and a willingness to let the wines develop.
Vines above the Danube
The vineyards described in the newsletter lay on terraces sloping towards the Danube. Clay loam covered marine sediments, sandstone and limestone veins, with deeper layers of yellow and blue clay. Nearby water and wetland contributed to the local microclimate.
Much of the vineyard work was manual. Bush-trained vines encouraged deeper roots and helped manage drought, while low yields kept the focus on the fruit. Welschriesling, Grüner Veltliner, Blauer Portugieser and Blaufränkisch connected the range to the region.
Different ways to give wine time
In the cellar, open fermentations and used barrels from the Zemplén forest gave the wines time to develop. Some whites spent time on their skins; others matured beneath flor, the surface yeast also associated with parts of Jerez and the Jura.
The newsletter explored the lees-aged texture of Nigori, the oxidative character of Veltlin and the skin-contact Welschriesling called Heion. It also introduced reds and a spontaneously fermented sour beer. The variety of the range reflected a single approach: observation, patience and an unusually close relationship with place.
