An extraordinary and deeply contemplative expression of old-vine Riesling, where the ancient volcanic soils of Badacsony meet the transformative power of time. The nose unfolds in captivating layers of ripe apricot, white peach and preserved citrus, gradually revealing dried chamomile, toasted almonds, beeswax and a delicate, almost ethereal savouriness. Beneath the generous fruit lies a striking mineral intensity, with crushed stone, subtle oxidative nuances and the unmistakable influence of flor bringing remarkable aromatic depth. The palate is powerful yet beautifully composed, with a rounded, almost creamy texture and a gentle suggestion of sweetness, held together by Riesling's vibrant acidity and an enduring saline tension. As the wine opens, its complexity continues to evolve, revealing new dimensions of dried herbs, citrus peel and savoury spice. The finish is extraordinarily long, mineral-driven and persistent, echoing with the quiet intensity of its volcanic origins. A wine of immense individuality and remarkable ageing potential, transcending conventional expressions of Riesling.

Winemaker | István Bencze

Region | Badacsony, Hungary

Variety | Riesling

Style | White

Viticulture | Biodynamic farming

Soil | Dense volcanic basalt with tuff, sandstone, brown forest soil and clay

Altitude | Approximately 180 m

Age of the vines | Planted in 1972 (2021)

Production | 900 - 1,200 bottles

Vinification

Aries is one of István's most ambitious expressions of Riesling, sourced from old vines deeply rooted in the volcanic slopes of Badacsony. The grapes are harvested by hand during the Aries phase of the lunar calendar and gently whole-bunch pressed, preserving their natural aromatic purity and acidity. Fermentation takes place spontaneously in neutral amphorae, allowing the wine to develop without the influence of oak.

For the extraordinary 2021 release, István allowed the wine to mature for four and a half years beneath a naturally developed veil of flor, a living layer of yeast that forms on the surface and profoundly influences the wine's evolution. This prolonged biological ageing introduces remarkable savoury complexity, nutty nuances and textural depth while retaining the underlying freshness and mineral precision of Riesling. Bottled without fining, filtration or added sulphur, it is a rare and uncompromising expression of patience, terroir and the transformative influence of time.

Vintage Variations

2019 | Aries

A relatively cool growing season compared with the exceptionally warm 2018, allowing the grapes to develop aromatic complexity gradually while retaining vibrant acidity. Across Badacsony, the vintage favoured wines of precision, freshness and a more linear, finely structured character. From István's old Riesling vines, Aries 2019 reflects a growing season that provided the foundation for elegance and mineral definition.

2020 | Aries

A warmer growing season, with relatively limited rainfall and periods of water stress encouraging thicker grape skins and a lower juice-to-fruit ratio. These conditions favoured greater aromatic concentration and a more generous texture, with acidity tending towards a rounder expression than in 2019. Aries 2020 represents a contrasting chapter in the vineyard's evolution, shaped by ripeness, concentration and the distinctive mineral character of Badacsony's volcanic soils.

2021 | Dancing on the Flor

A cool, wet and demanding growing season, with significant disease pressure naturally reducing yields while preserving exceptional acidity and mineral tension in the surviving fruit. From vines planted in 1972, the wine underwent an extraordinary four and a half years of maturation in amphora beneath a veil of flor, transforming the naturally precise character of the vintage into something profoundly complex.

The nose reveals ripe apricot, preserved citrus and delicate Riesling aromatics, intertwined with dried herbs, toasted nuts and subtle oxidative nuances. The palate is generous and full-bodied, with a beautifully rounded texture and a gentle suggestion of sweetness, balanced by vibrant acidity and a distinctive stony minerality. Long, savoury and remarkably persistent, this is a wine of extraordinary depth, elegance and individuality.

Interesting Facts

Aries takes its name from the astrological constellation and the corresponding phase of the lunar calendar, reflecting István's biodynamic philosophy and his belief in the relationship between natural rhythms and the vineyard. The grapes are traditionally harvested during the Aries period, a symbolic connection between the wine, the land and the wider forces of nature.

The 2021 release, Dancing on the Flor, represents an extraordinary departure from conventional Riesling winemaking. Rather than protecting the wine from all oxygen exposure, István allowed a natural veil of yeast to develop and remain undisturbed for four and a half years. This living layer, known as flor or voile, transforms the wine through biological ageing, introducing distinctive savoury, nutty and mineral complexities while preserving remarkable freshness.

Most famously associated with the wines of Jerez and the Jura, this technique is exceptionally rare for Riesling, particularly over such an extended period. Combined with the extraordinary character of vines planted in 1972 and the mineral-rich volcanic soils of Badacsony, it creates a wine that challenges almost every expectation of the variety.

More than simply a rare cuvée, Dancing on the Flor is a fascinating exploration of time, patience and the delicate relationship between wine and the living organisms that shape its evolution.