Bencze - Furmint

Bencze - Furmint

from £51.50

A profound and beautifully expressive interpretation of Furmint, where the ancient volcanic soils of Badacsony meet István Bencze's uncompromising pursuit of purity and precision. The nose unfolds with vibrant citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit and delicate herbal notes, gradually revealing layers of quince, ripe peach, flinty reduction and subtle savoury complexity. The palate is remarkably concentrated yet effortlessly poised, with Furmint's unmistakable acidity bringing extraordinary tension and energy to its generous, finely textured core. Extended ageing in clay and stoneware vessels lends depth and a seamless, almost sculpted texture without obscuring the vineyard's distinctive mineral character. The finish is exceptionally long, saline and persistent, carrying citrus peel, crushed stone and gentle spice far beyond the last sip. A Furmint of remarkable individuality and quiet power, balancing concentration with precision and offering exceptional potential for evolution in the cellar.

Winemaker | István Bencze

Region | Badacsony, Hungary

Variety | Furmint

Style | White

Viticulture | Biodynamic farming

Soil | Dense volcanic basalt with tuff, sandstone, brown forest soil and clay

Altitude | Approximately 180 m

Age of the vines | Approximately 15 years

Production | 1,800 bottles (2023), 1000 (2024)

Vinification

István's approach to Furmint centres on preserving the variety's natural acidity, mineral tension and remarkable capacity for ageing. The grapes are gently pressed before undergoing spontaneous fermentation and extended maturation in neutral clay or stoneware vessels, allowing the wine to develop depth and complexity without the influence of oak. This patient, minimal-intervention approach builds remarkable texture while maintaining the purity of the fruit and the distinctive volcanic character of Badacsony.

Vintage Variations

2023 | The Year of Complexity

A warmer growing season with a later harvest and a subtle influence of noble botrytis, bringing an intriguing dimension to Furmint's naturally precise character. Harvested in several passes from early September to capture optimal ripeness, the grapes undergo slow, gentle whole-bunch pressing before fermentation and 24 months of maturation in clay amphorae. Only the three finest amphorae are selected for the final blend, which is bottled without fining, filtration or added sulphur.

The resulting wine is deeply layered, opening with lime zest, grapefruit peel and ripe peach before revealing chamomile, black tea, dried herbs and delicate honeyed nuances. The palate balances crystalline acidity with a subtle, waxy richness, creating a fascinating interplay between tension and generosity. Long, saline and mineral-driven, with an evolving savoury complexity and impressive ageing potential.

2024 | The Return to Precision

Following the more generous and botrytis-influenced 2023, the 2024 vintage marks a return to István's original vision of Furmint: straight, intensely acid-driven and mineral-focused, yet with greater depth, ripeness and textural complexity than its linear profile initially suggests. The nose reveals crisp apple, citrus zest, fresh pear and quince, intertwined with delicate herbal notes and the distinctive freshness of chervil. The palate is full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, with remarkable tension between its ripe, generous fruit and vibrant, almost electric acidity. Despite its richness, the wine retains a distinctly cool-toned character, carrying exceptional energy through to a long, precise and persistent finish.

The grapes are directly pressed before spontaneous fermentation and 20 months of maturation in stoneware vessels, allowing the wine to develop remarkable depth while preserving its natural freshness and mineral definition. A wine of extraordinary balance and structure, with the concentration and acidity to evolve gracefully over many years.

Interesting Facts

Furmint is one of Central Europe's most remarkable white grape varieties, celebrated for its naturally high acidity, extraordinary capacity to reflect terroir and exceptional ageing potential. While most famously associated with Tokaj, it finds an entirely different expression on the volcanic slopes of Badacsony, where ancient basalt formations and mineral-rich soils shape wines of striking tension, depth and individuality.

For István Bencze, Furmint represents a fascinating dialogue between nature and patience. Through biodynamic farming, careful selection and exceptionally long maturation in neutral vessels, he allows the grape's natural structure and the character of the vineyard to emerge without distraction. The contrast between 2023 and 2024 is particularly compelling: two interpretations of the same variety, one shaped by the complexity of botrytis and the other by the purity of acidity and ripeness, each revealing a different dimension of Badacsony's extraordinary terroir.

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