SZÓLÓ: Tímea Éless and the many expressions of Tokaj
From the newsletter archive. Originally sent 19 December 2025; adapted for the Journal on 29 October 2026.
Beginning with a family plot
SZÓLÓ’s story began with a 0.9-hectare family vineyard passed to Tímea Éless by her grandmother in 2009. The land was already part of her life. Restoring parcels and establishing the cellar took time, alongside studies, motherhood and the work of the vineyard.
By the time of our December 2025 newsletter, the project centred on individual vineyards around Tállya, including Tökösmály, Bártfai, Sípos, Palota and Dukát. Older vines rooted in rhyolitic tuff and luvisol gave the wines a shared connection to Tokaj’s volcanic ground.
Different vessels, different expressions
The newsletter described Demeter-certified biodynamic farming and a cellar approach built on spontaneous fermentation and gentle handling. Porcelain eggs and stainless steel played a central part in the dry wines; older oak barrels supported the sweet wines.
Since the 2020 vintage, the estate had used the five elements as a way to describe different expressions of its vineyards. The aim was to show their differences clearly rather than make them conform to a single style.
Four wines from the release
Boogie 2023 combined Furmint and Hárslevelű in a bright sparkling wine, with citrus, green apple and flowers. Víz 2023, a single-vineyard Furmint from Dukát, was the more direct study in clarity, with peach, pear and a saline line.
Föld 2022 brought together Furmint and Hárslevelű from Sípos in a deeper, more textured expression. Dolce MV explored sweet Tokaj through a blend of Aszú and late-harvest wines from several vintages, balancing apricot, quince and honey with lively acidity.
The range showed why Tokaj deserves attention beyond one style of wine: a single place can offer bubbles, dry whites and sweetness without losing its identity.